Madrid, Sep 17 (EFE).- The red carpet dresses by Roberto Diz, “heavy artillery” and the international designs by Custo Barcelona have brought light and stimulation to a decaffeinated day of the Madrid catwalk, in this 76th edition in which risk and consecrated names like Pertegaz or Roberto Torretta are missing.
“Heavy artillery” has brought Roberto Dรญz to the catwalk, who returns “more slutty and more powerful” with a collection in which neither structures nor shoulder pads nor interlinings appear, common elements in his sewing.
Light garments have been seen on the catwalk, “some can be picked up in the hand” and suits made with glass netting, which “invite you to go between dressed and naked”, Roberto Diz told Efe that he has used raffia from Andalusia to create garments with great movement.
It is a “stimulating” collection, designed to show off on the red carpet, “my actresses need me”, this Galician based in Seville tells with laughter that he has used an electrified fabric that simulates garbage bags to make evening dresses.
To close the parade, a long fluorescent dress, “the stimulus of neon, a hymn to the joy of living”.
Before that, Custo Barcelona, โโwhich after presenting its 50th fashion show in New York last week, has brought the same “Sun o’clock” collection to Ifema, but with eight new proposals for spring-summer 2023 .
“Light, lots of light, we try to make the sun illuminate the dark time again,” said Custo Dalmau, creative director of Custo Barcelona who dominates mini dresses in shiny fabrics and revealing openings.
A firm that began selling t-shirts, designs that achieved international fame since Julia Roberts wore them in 1999 in the movie “Runaway Bride”.
However, now the dress has become the firm’s star piece together with the urban “body”, “an alternative to the evening dress”.
Custo Dalmau has known how to adapt to changes without losing his way since he started 42 years ago. “All the clothes are comfortable”, points out the designer who assures that the saying “to show off you have to suffer” does not go with him.
Dalmau, who makes emotional pieces “to surprise women”, does not understand fashion “without creativity and optimism”.
In the early afternoon, the party dresses stepped on the catwalk by Claro Couture and its creative director, Fernando Claro, who presented a collection in which materials such as organza, feathers, satin crepe, rebrodรฉs and lycra prevail. printed, from which it conceives tight silhouettes and with large volumes in the skirt.
Textures in which he lets himself be carried away by a color palette of intense tones such as fuchsia or Klein blue, in which he inserts baby blue and black, a classic for the night.
The Sevillian firm has included, for the first time, a small touch of men’s fashion.
Then came the commercial proposals from Lola Casademunt by Maite, who defines the collection as a “summer dream, the one from which we never want to wake up”, commented the creator.
A fantasy that translates into sweet tones, fluoride and tons of glitter, “a way to add energy to the day to day. Sparkles that bring magic to the garments,” said Maite Casademunt, who incorporates animal print in blue and pink zebra in pants and bags.
“Versatile” garments that accept “different uses, but always comfortable”, warns, which patron with very fluid feminine silhouettes, as is the case of the Americans.
The designer Ulises Mรฉrida has been the winner of the L’Orรจal award for the best collection, while the plus-size mannequin Lorena Duran has been chosen as the best model of the 76th edition that closes with more shadows than lights and gives way to the proposal of young talents that will be held tomorrow.
(c) EFE Agency
